Animal suffering is embedded in traditional bespoke suits crafted by tailors due to the animal products they contain, but vegan-friendly tailors have found ways to replace them.

Traditional bespoke suits — symbols of refinement and craftsmanship — hide a tapestry of animal suffering, woven into their very fibres. As about 99% of bespoke suits are made from wool, and many of the most prestigious are constructed from horse-hair, vegan-friendly bespoke suits are quite rare, and vegans should always assume that the average suit made by a tailor (as opposed to off the rack) will contain animal products. For an ethical vegan, visiting the tailor shops of the famous Savile Row in London — where arguably the best tailors trade —will be quite disappointing, as you will most likely get the “No, I’m afraid not, sir” answer to the question of whether they make suits suitable for vegans. 

We will explore each animal product involved in the making of traditional bespoke suits, including the cruelty behind their sourcing, and the promising vegan alternatives redefining ethical elegance today. 

What is a traditional bespoke suit?

A traditional bespoke suit is the epitome of personalised tailoring craftsmanship, designed and made entirely by hand to fit an individual’s unique measurements and posture. It consists of several carefully constructed components, each playing a pivotal role in the suit’s structure, style, and comfort.

The most recognisable piece, the jacket — or coat — is custom-cut from multiple fabric panels, including the front (two foreparts), the back, and the sleeves. Its shape is supported by an internal canvas layer, traditionally made from natural fibres like wool, horsehair, and cotton, which gives the jacket its form, breathability, and durability. Lapels (folded flaps of fabric along the jacket front) usually come in three styles: notch, peak, or shawl, marking different levels of formality. Vents at the back aid mobility, with options ranging from none (traditionally formal), single, or double vents, the latter inspired by historical needs for horse riding. Roughly 2,000 to 3,000 separate stitches can be found in a bespoke jacket.

Custom-cut to complement the jacket, tailoring trousers is a precise art, balancing modern and traditional cuts. Styles include flat-front (clean and modern), pleated (classically generous), and high-waisted designs. Waistbands may feature belt loops, side adjusters, or buttons for suspenders.

Part of a three-piece suit, the waistcoat adds warmth and formality. Usually crafted from the same fabric as the jacket and trousers, it is tailored to hug the torso closely.

The bespoke suit has its roots in 17^th and 18^th-century European “menswear”, emerging from military uniforms, equestrian wear, and aristocratic fashion. Its hallmark is the tailoring process itself — founded in Savile Row, London, where cutters and tailors perfected hand-crafted suits to fit a gentleperson’s body precisely, sculpting the silhouette with shoulder pads, chest canvases, and structured sleeves to convey poise, dignity, and authority.

The canvas interlining enables the jacket to hold shape while moving comfortably with the wearer. Double vents originated as a practical design for horse riders to prevent creasing. Lapel styles and button arrangements evolved as markers of the wearer’s status and occasion formality. 

The animal products used in traditional bespoke suits

Many animals have been exploited to produce traditional bespoke suits in the past, and unfortunately, still in the present, despite the available alternatives. The following are all of the animal products used in such sophisticated and valued garments:

Wool fabrics 

Wool, from sheeps or goats (called mohair), is the crown jewel of bespoke suits, cherished for millennia for its softness, warmth, and durability. Wool production dates back over 10,000 years, embedded in ancient cultures from Peru to Europe. This legacy crafted wool as a symbol of status and function. However, behind wool’s natural appeal lies systematic cruelty. Sheeps in Australia (a top wool-producing country) frequently endure mulesing — the brutal removal of skin without pain relief to prevent flystrike — causing immense pain and distress. The shearing process is often rough and frightening, and sheep suffer during transport and slaughter. The wool industry’s legacy is one of ongoing unjustified violence.

Emerging vegan wool alternatives are now challenging this cruelty without compromising texture or performance. Innovations such as:

• Hemp and coconut fibre blends treated with mushroom enzymes to soften and mimic wool’s feel (e.g., the Colombian “Woocoa” development).
• Plant-based fibres like organic cotton, linen, bamboo, and Tencel, which provide breathability, durability, and luxurious drape.
• Specialised vegan wools such as “Weganool” from South India, a blend of calotropis fibres and organic cotton with wool-like properties.
• Recycled synthetic fibres and bioengineered materials offer cruelty-free warmth and texture.

Horsehair Canvas

Horsehair canvas — an often unseen, yet central, structural fabric within the world of bespoke tailoring — has long been used to give classic men’s suit jackets their shape, structure, and crisp drape. This interlining fabric, made by weaving horsehair (usually from the tails of horses) with cotton or linen, is prized for its springy resilience, breathability, and durability. The selection of horsehair was driven by its unique ability to hold a tailored shape while remaining flexible, a quality popularised since at least the 19^th century in European tailoring houses.

The story behind horsehair, though, unveils another case of hidden animal exploitation. Harvesting horsehair requires the keeping of horses for this purpose, among others, or the collection of hair as a by-product of slaughter. While some may argue that tail-hair harvesting can be done without killing, the realities of the horsehair trade cannot be separated from the exploitation of horses, bred, kept, and eventually killed when no longer profitable or “useful”. Their autonomy and well-being are disregarded, and their lives commodified simply for the sake of garment structure, food, sport, work, or leisure.

The landscape of bespoke tailoring is now evolving to ditch animal-derived canvas in favour of cruelty-free innovations:

• Cotton and flax-based canvas: Rigid, woven blends of cotton and linen, often with a light stiffening treatment, replicate the shaping power of horsehair without a single animal’s involvement.
• Synthetic interlinings: Advanced polyester or viscose non-wovens and fusibles can provide tailored structure and longevity on par with traditional horsehair canvas. These materials resist warping, maintain breathability, and allow for precision tailoring.
• Recycled materials: Some vegan tailoring houses use interlinings made from post-consumer recycled fibres.

Leather trims

Leather has outfitted men’s suits for centuries — used in buttons, trims, and accessories like belts and shoes — owing to its toughness and polished aesthetic. Traditionally sourced from the skins of cows, goats, and other animals, leather’s production chain is steeped in suffering: animals endure extreme confinement and violent slaughter. The leather industry is a significant driver of both animal abuse and environmental destruction, and contrary to popular belief, it is not based on a by-product of the meat industry — leather is a co-product, not a by-product. 

Fortunately, a spectrum of vegan leathers now provides stylish, durable alternatives for suit components:

• Mushroom leather (mycelium-based), celebrated for its texture and sustainability.
• Pineapple leaf-based leather (Piñatex), transforming agricultural waste into a supple material.
• Recycled plastic-based trims eliminate reliance on animal products.

Silk lining

Silk’s shimmering allure made it a quintessential fabric in suit linings and ties, prized across cultures for centuries. Traditionally, commercial silk production kills billions of silkworms by boiling them alive inside their cocoons to extract the fibre. This practice renders silk a deeply exploitative material.

Thankfully, plant-based and synthetic linings have replaced silk in many modern vegan suits:

• Viscose, lyocell (Tencel), and bamboo fibres offer silky textures with smooth finishes.
• Microfibre linings precisely engineered to mimic the sheen and softness of silk.
• Recycled polyester fabrics combine durability with sheen.

Horn, bone, and mother-of-pearl buttons

Horn and bone buttons — crafted from deer antlers or animal bones — and mother-of-pearl,  aka nacre, a lustrous, iridescent substance found on the inner layer of certain mollusc shells — have long adorned bespoke suits as subtle symbols of craftsmanship. These often-overlooked components are linked to animal exploitation, adding to the hidden suffering within tailoring.

Modern bespoke tailors are embracing:

• Buttons made from recycled plastics, wood, and corozo nut (vegetable ivory) which provide sturdy, natural, and elegant finishes.
• Metal or fabric-covered buttons, which offer style with no animal harm.

The traditional bespoke suit, while a masterpiece of sartorial art, is entangled with hidden animal suffering — sheeps mutilated for wool, goats confined for fibres, horses killed for their hair, cows slaughtered for leather, silkworms boiled alive, and countless animals lost to decorative accessories. Yet, the evolution of compassionate craftsmanship is underway, offering a future where tailoring shines with cruelty-free fibres such as hemp, organic cotton, bamboo, mushroom leather, and recycled materials. There are already several tailors that produce vegan bespoke suits, and advertise them as such (even in London), so hopefully more will follow suit. Cotton suits (very popular in the US), velvet suits (comfortable, warm, and sophisticated), or linen suits (perfect for hot, humid and dry weather) are all easy vegan alternatives to traditional suits.

Perhaps one day Savile Row will only have vegan tailors.